Celebrated chef and restaurateur Tom Colicchio is answering the question, “Why I Cook,” in his brand new book that serves as part gastronomic essay and part recipes.
The lead judge on the hit reality culinary competition, “Top Chef,” told “Good Morning America” that the impetus for this book — which was under contract for 15 years — was the opportunity and feeling of creative passion outside the walls of a kitchen or on a TV set.
“While incredible opportunities continue to come my way, I feel confident enough these days that unless a proposal excites me creatively, I’m not interested,” he said.
Colicchio also shared that his personal outlook on success is no longer guided by accolades and acclaim — though he has racked up eight James Beard Foundation Awards that include Best Chef and Best New Restaurant, plus an additional 11 nominations.
“My definition of success has grown beyond James Beard Awards and stars in the New York Times to include the health of my relationships both with my loved ones and with the people I am blessed to work with. I’m still working closely with my chefs in the restaurants, but I’m no longer on the pass at night, mostly because I want to eat dinner with my kids, and also because my knees and back don’t like it,” Colicchio said.
…I’m cooking more than I ever have
He continued, “With that said, it might surprise people to learn that I’m cooking more than I ever have. I find my greatest pleasure in cooking for close family and friends. It never gets old. That — feeding the bonds of those relationships — is why I cook.”
Through 10 memoir chapters and 60 recipes, the Elizabeth, New Jersey native reflects on everything from his earliest kitchen memories to working in award-winning kitchens of New York City’s best restaurants and of course, shares some delicious dishes for home cooks to recreate in their own kitchens.
Check out two full recipes below from “Why I Cook.”
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A Salad of Radicchio, Fennel, and Pear
“In the fall, I can’t get enough bitter Italian greens: Trevisano and Castelfranco radicchio, among others. I tend to like bitter flavors, which is why I’m a fan of chicories and Negronis, too,” Colicchio wrote in the book alongside this recipe. “Bitter is an overlooked but important component in a meal. In this salad, the bitter greens combined with sweetness and acid works well in your mouth. For a bit of added earthiness and crunch, top the salad with some walnuts, if you feel inclined.”
Serves 8
Ingredients
Vinaigrette
1/4 cup honey vinegar (preferably Lindera Farms Honey Vinegar) or apple cider vinegar
2 tablespoons finely chopped shallot
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salad
8 cups (9 ounces) torn bitter greens, such as Treviso, Castelfranco, or dandelion
1 Bartlett pear, thinly sliced on a mandoline
1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced on a mandoline
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup toasted walnuts (optional)
Directions
Make the vinaigrette: In a small bowl, mix the vinegar with the shallots. Season with salt and pepper. Slowly whisk in the olive oil until a cohesive dressing comes together. Taste and season with more salt if needed.
Assemble the salad: Place the bitter greens, pear, and fennel in a large bowl. Add the vinaigrette and gently toss. Season with salt and pepper. Top the salad with the toasted walnuts, if using, and serve.
Chef Tom’s Tips
Choose any bitter greens that look good at the market: I like Treviso, Castelfranco, or dandelion
Bitter greens tasted great dressed with sweetness and acid; your mouth will thank you
Top salads with walnuts for earthiness and crunch
My Mother’s Pasta with Broccoli…Not Really
“For my entire childhood my mother made cavatelli with broccoli every other week. I never once saw her use a measuring cup. She used her eyes, checking whether the dish looked ‘right’ or not,” Colicchio recalled in the new book. “She wouldn’t have put it this way, but what my mother was looking for was ratios. Specifically, how much broccoli there was compared to the pasta. This amount came not from a recipe but from years of feedback from the Colicchio boys. (This broccoli-forward recipe is how I like it. Mike, my brother, prefers less broccoli but this is my book, not his.) So, my advice is not to get hung up on the amounts of this or any recipe. The amounts are the least important part. Want less broccoli? OK. Use two crowns. Want to add some chickpeas? Great. Do you want more chickpeas than broccoli or more broccoli than chickpeas or for them to be equally important? You have eyes. Use them.”
Serves 4
Ingredients
Kosher salt
1 pound orecchiette, cavatelli, or other pasta shape
2 to 3 broccoli crowns, roughly chopped into small pieces
1 head garlic, cloves separated and thinly sliced
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3/4 cup freshly grated pecorino cheese
Freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon crushed Calabrian chile pepper (optional)
Directions
Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook according to the package instructions. About 5 minutes before the end of the cooking time, add the broccoli to the pasta pot and give it a stir. Continue to cook the pasta and broccoli together. In the last minute of cooking, add the sliced garlic to the pot with the pasta and broccoli. Reserving 1 cup of the pasta water, drain the pasta, broccoli, and garlic and return to the pasta cooking pot.
Chef Tom’s Tips
Choose your pasta of choice: I like orecchiette or cavatelli for this dish
Adjust ratio of broccoli to pasta to please your family’s tastes. I prefer an almost even broccoli to pasta ratio; my brother Mike prefers less pasta
Add chickpeas for more protein if you like
Recipes excerpted from “Why I Cook” by Tom Colicchio. Artisan Books. Copyright © 2024.